Hampton Court Palace and Les Mis

I’ve been interested in the British monarchy since Will and Kate’s fairytale wedding. I remember getting up early and watching the pageantry unfold with my mom, and I still have the special edition of People magazine in a box somewhere…I promise I’ll go through those boxes in the attic, Mom. In high school I had a book that gave a brief history of every British reigning monarch, and I became fixated on the Tudors because, I mean, how could I not? It’s a dynasty marked by drama and executions and affairs and far too many marriages and changes in power. I was so interested that I wrote my high school senior thesis all about the Tudor family’s messy family saga. This will be important in a moment.

Tom promised me castles for our honeymoon last summer, but I had to be strategic about which ones to visit. Buckingham, sadly, would open for the season after we left. Our last day in England was the first day of Highclere (the filming location of Downton Abbey) being open for the season, and it was the first attraction I booked months in advance. Because he said castles plural, I wrestled with my second pick, knowing we had limited time. Ultimately, my adolescent love for the Tudors won out, and I knew we had to visit Hampton Court Palace, their most famous residence.

The view walking up to Hampton Court Palace--a very British rainy day

Using the National Rail, it’s about an hour train ride from London to the palace, which is a conveniently short and straightforward walk from the station. We arrived around 10AM, and the view is as dramatic and majestic as I could have hoped for. When I say this is a full day attraction, I really mean you should clear your schedule for it and allocate six or seven hours (Gen Z do not point out my inadvertent 6/7 reference). We were there for four and a half hours, and while that gave us ample time to explore the interior of the palace, we barely scratched the surface of exploring the grounds (much like when we visited Versailles—we don’t always learn from our mistakes).

The palace is split into two distinct historic periods: the Tudor and the Baroque period of William III and Mary II. I didn’t even realize that William and Mary called Hampton Court home, so this was such an exciting surprise for me as a W&M alumna. The pair became an unexpected but recurring theme throughout our European travels, popping up in churches and palaces and paintings.

We opted to do the audio-guided tour, and I can’t recommend doing that enough. There is just so much to take in, and without some guidance and information, you’ll feel like you’re missing out (much like we felt at Versailles, see we’re learning!). The interiors are sprawling and beautifully restored to give you a sense of the vast networks required to keep such a massive residence running. If you care about the little details like what a king would eat and how much food and drink would be needed to host a dinner, you’ll be delighted to explore the kitchens.

Once we wrapped up the servants’ perspective of palace life, we popped into a lecture from the museum staff, and it was one of the highlights of the day. The historian was so engaging and excited to share his research, and his enthusiasm was infectious. Much like how the historical interpreters at Colonial Williamsburg make history feel alive and relevant through their storytelling, I was fascinated from beginning to end and could have listened to a half dozen more stories.

The Great Hall is full of little details to look for

We then made our way through the Great Hall, which is full of intricate details that invite and urge you to slow down and search for them. One of my favorite “I spy” moments was the entwined initials of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, a reminder a half millennium later of the love story that changed the course of history. There’re tapestries and stained glass and an ornate ceiling (but not nearly as ornate at the gorgeously painted ceilings you’ll find later in the tour). As vast and splendor-filled as this space is, it’s awe-inspiring in an entirely different way than the elegance and opulence of the Baroque court.

Oh look, painted ceilings!

Further down the hall you’ll walk through the paths that were once trod by Henry VIII and his doomed wives. One of my favorite spots in this section is a round table with audio playing the arguments between Henry’s advisors about his marital decisions; it’s yet another powerful reminder that the decisions made hundreds of years ago had very real and lasting consequences. Paintings and tapestries and beautifully detailed ceilings abound, and even if you’re not an art aficionado, there’s plenty to admire and learn.

Moving into the Georgian court and jumping forward a few generations, the dark woods and tapestries give ways to lighter, brighter interiors but still plenty of court intrigue and drama. The opulence is at a whole other level and felt, in many ways, reminiscent of the over-the-top grandeur of Versailles. Like the doomed French monarchs, the British royals created their living quarters with spectators in mind. Dressing and eating were moments open for public display, so even their private spaces were elaborately and gorgeously decorated. There’s just so much to take in here, and while I’m not an architecture or art expert (I’m barely a novice), I found myself marveling at the beauty and wonder that such a space (well, series of spaces) could exist and be someone’s home.

There's so much to take in throughout the palace

All in all, I learned so much, found myself gazing with wonder and awe over and over and over again, and wished I had more time to slow down and explore it all more thoroughly. I would definitely return, even after spending a good amount of time in the most famous spaces, because I feel like there’s so much I could still learn and appreciate.

We were on a strict schedule to return back to London because we had dinner and theater reservations. We definitely prioritized dining throughout our trip, and while we wanted to experience some world-class cuisine, I was still mindful of doing so on a realistic budget. One of my hacks is to look for Bib Gourmand or just Michelin Guide rather than Michelin Starred restaurants; the food quality, ambience, and service are top notch, but the savings are significant. However, on occasion, one-star restaurants offer unbeatable deals. Wild Honey St. James is one of those rare cases where you can have upscale dining at a surprisingly affordable rate. Now, this is not to say that the meal was cheap, but if you take into account the location, prestige, and quality, the price feels entirely reasonable.

Wild Honey St. James combines the artistry and technique of French cooking with the local vibrancy of British produce, and their ever-changing menu reflects the ever-changing harvests from their local suppliers. Their pre-theater menu offers three courses from a limited menu for 45 pounds ($61), and with the restaurant being just ten minutes or less of a walk from all of the major theaters, this is an incredible opportunity for a “dinner and a show” deal. Because we arrived before our reservation, we popped into the St James Bar to indulge in some eye-wateringly expensive (but absolutely delicious) cocktails. The Red Rose, a blend of gin, strawberries, and white wine, runs you 24 pounds ($33), which makes the dinner price seem even more like a bargain. While the bar is inspired by a 1920’s speakeasy and is outfitted with dark, velvety upholstery and a moody interior, Wild Honey feels modern, bright, and inviting. The service at both was efficient, perfect for establishing the mood before a theater performance without adding unnecessary stress of making the show on time.

A more refined take on bacon and cabbage

The dinner reminded me of the fresh, locally rooted sensibilities I so enjoyed throughout the Netherlands. The food was uncomplicated but carefully and beautifully composed, and the ingredients were invited to shine. There were not mountains of gravy or mash or fried crust that one so often associates with traditional British fare. There was a bacon and cabbage inspired appetizer that felt both elevated and authentically connected to its rustic roots. The fish main course was light without feeling insubstantial, and I always appreciate a well-cooked piece of white fish. The chocolate cake, while not holding a lasting impression, escaped the usual condemnation of being saccharine or artificial; it’s rare to find a restaurant with outstanding savory and sweet offerings. While the courses came in a quicker clip than most fine dining establishments would prefer, the efficiency is necessary for the pre-theater crowd. If we were to eat outside of this early window, the three courses skyrockets in price to 98 pounds ($133), so I will gladly halve the price for a more streamlined menu and faster service. Were there options on the full menu that looked appealing? Absolutely. Were the savings too great to pass up? Also absolutely. I would love to go back to try their wild honey ice cream and to sample what varying seasons have to offer, but if our one visit was to be our only, I was fully satisfied with our experience. I can see why they've held onto their Michelin Star for years.

You could rely on me to always order the fish when it was an option

Because I picked Hadestown, Tom wanted to pick a classic musical while we were in the West End. We were able to find a good deal on Les Miserables tickets at the Sondheim Theater, but I have to preface this by saying that I don’t enjoy Les Mis. There’re songs that I enjoy, but there are no characters I root for, the plot seems to drag, and the whole thing just feels depressing (this seems like a good time to exit stage left and avoid the mob of angry theater lovers). The live production was, without a doubt, a beautifully choreographed and staged play. The smoke and lights vividly brought the pivotal battle scenes to life and were among the strongest aspects of the adaption. The singing was, of course, masterful, but it doesn’t matter how good the singing is—I still don’t like most of the songs. Tom loved it and still sings its praises to his theater-loving siblings. I can separate my dislike for the play’s content from my admiration for the play’s production and casting.

A beautiful and captivating performance--it's just not my favorite musical

The following day would be our longest of the entire trip as we ventured to Silverstone for the F1 race. If palaces were my passion, race cars most certainly were Tom’s, and the adventure came with its share of detours and mishaps that, while stressful at the time, have become great stories.