Pub Crawling Through London

How do you spend the 4^th of July in London as an American couple? Visiting as many pubs as you can, of course! Both Tom and I love the festivities associated with the 4^th of July: fireworks, cookouts, parades, and community gatherings, and there was a definite hint of irony spending our nation’s Independence Day in the capital of its former colonizer. Does wearing my shirt from Hamilton counteract that a little? Anyway, we wanted a relaxed day of exploring the city by pub crawling through the posh neighborhoods of Mayfair and Belgravia. The exceedingly luxurious neighborhoods are eye-wateringly expensive for sit-down dining, but their pubs offer an affordable way to feel like a local in quietly historic corners of the sprawling metropolis.

Our first stop was at the Albert right near our hotel. Built in 1862, this historic building survived the Blitz and boasts original ceilings, hand-etched frosted glass windows, and iron balconies. Now, for reference, I am not a fan of beer. Tom loves breweries, so I’ve spent my fair share of time around IPAs, sours, stouts, and other craft brews. All in all, it’s rare for me to find a pint in the States that I would want to order for a second time. However, British beer was a completely different experience. The cask-ale tradition of British pubs means that your pour doesn’t come with extra carbonation (a huge perk in my eyes) and is generally smoother. Not bitter, not too hoppy, and all in all a balanced brew, I found myself enjoying beer far more than I expected. However, if I had the option to order a Pimm’s Cup or cider, I would still choose them. We ordered fish and chips for $25.72 and a Great British cheese toastie for $11.88 to split. Of all our fish and chips, this one was middle of the road. It, like the cheese toastie, wasn’t memorably bad or good. The pub was pretty quiet around noon and had cricket playing on the television. All in all, the pub was fine, but in comparison with others that we visited, it wasn’t as high on our list.

Our next stop was for a shave and haircut for Tom at a Turkish barbershop before stopping at an independent pub, The Nags Head, in Belgravia. I learned that many British pubs are part of a larger ownership group, so while the building may be historic, they’re one of a number of properties that are managed and supplied by the same company. Independent pubs, therefore, are unique gems and worth seeking out. This one came highly recommended by Tom’s dad, and it’s fascinatingly and snugly eclectic. The walls and ceilings are absolutely plastered with a seemingly endless collage of assorted pictures and paraphernalia, and the small space has a similar aged charm to an antiques shop. There’s a historic stove, a cigarette machine, and a general atmosphere meant for chatter among old friends rather than millennials gathering to watch a football match. In fact, the owner does not tolerate cellphones, and while it’s not the most overtly friendly of spaces, it’s one that feels like a step into another, older, simpler world. If you’re looking for an old-school establishment for a straight-forward, no-frills bar menu, you’re in luck here.

Now, Belgravia is not known for being the most budget-friendly of neighborhoods, and I quickly learned just how pricey it can be. There was a stand selling cookies for the Cedric Grolet shop, and while I had no context for who this apparently famed baker was, the cookies looked delicious and exceedingly tempting. Well, it was a delicious cookie, but it cost a whopping $20, something I did not realize until we purchased it. At that price, I would have expected enough cookies to feed a family, but it was a good reminder to be careful about pop-up stands.

Our next stop was The Grenadier, which felt like a night and day difference from The Nags Head. Millennials were spilling out onto the sidewalk in their fashionable summer clothes as they balanced pints and Pimm’s Cups. We found ourselves sitting on the curb outside what has been described as “royalty among London pubs,” but we luckily did get to peek inside the iconic building. The ceiling is completely covered in paper money, because, allegedly, the bar is named for a cheating soldier who was killed for his crimes. Visitors are still pinning money to the ceiling to pay his ghostly debts, but it doesn’t seem as though they’ve freed poor old Cedric yet. The pub offers a homemade, seasonal menu that looks delicious, but we just stuck to a drink and soaked in the excited summer atmosphere. I did love the energy of London and Leiden and Paris in the evenings: people young and old gather intentionally in pubs, cafes, and restaurants to share a meal or a drink and socialize. I often feel the strains and difficulties of meeting and connecting with others in the States, but there seems to be such a communal atmosphere around meals throughout Europe.

Our walk to our final pub was scenic as we passed various embassies and posh residences. It’s a bit like living in a period drama to just casually pass these cinematic landmarks on your afternoon stroll, and I was again reminded how surreal and special it was to be in London. The Horse and Groom calls itself “Belgravia’s best kept secret,” so I apologize in advance for letting the cat out of the bag. This charming and friendly pub was frequented by the Beatles and has since been used as a film location. However, it was refreshingly quiet and calming, much like the peaceful neighborhood it inhabits. The staff were kind but unobtrusive, and it successfully operates as an oasis in a bustling city. Tom had been excited to visit the pub because of its connection to the Beatles, and it was a relief to see that their favoritism was not overtly and tackily advertised. It was a perfect final stop of the evening before our dinner.

Dinner that evening was a splurge-worthy treat at the one-Michelin starred south Indian restaurant, Quilon, at our hotel. We took the opportunity to dress up before indulging in their tasting menu. We had the choice of a seafood, non-vegetarian, or vegetarian menu, and we were thoroughly impressed by the variety of tastes and textures we were presented with. This is not the place to expect a simple butter chicken; rather, you’ll explore crab tart, lamb shank, and duck roast (among many others) with a variety of warming spices. While Indian food is stereotyped as being spicy, nothing was uncomfortably hot, and we found ourselves enjoying dish after dish without runny noses and stinging tongues. I didn’t always know everything we were eating, but we put our trust in the chef and weren’t disappointed with any course. The non-vegetarian course is $156 per person, and while the price is steep, the kitchen is incredibly generous with its courses and food quality. However, you don’t feel overwhelmed by the amount that you receive, which is a relief given the richness and sheer number of plates other fixed course establishments provide.

The following day was a dream come true for my high school self: a visit to Hampton Court Palace to visit where the Tudors lived. Tom promised me castles, and this is a must-visit for history lovers.